Shampoo bar hair & body

This is a handcrafted vegetable and vegan soap, made by cold process, a solid shampoo for hair and body in the form of bars. It is not common to use a solid shampoo bar form for the hair treatment.

In the soapmaking when making a shampoo for hair normally is a liquid soap by hot process method. In the liquid soap always a need exists for coconut oil or palm kernel or babassu because potassium laurate is most soluble salts of soap, liquid soap gives the necessary solubility and also transparency.

Coconut oil is otherwise known for their strong cleaning action, which, depending on the amount used, can be aggressive to the skin and especially to the scalp, an area of great sensitivity.

As there is a limit to the amount of coconut oil, it is not possible to formulate a good shampoo for hair without liquid coconut oil.

Thinking about the possibility of doing a shampoo bars without coconut oil, I started working in a formulation suitable for this.

 

The goal was to have a shampoo that had the maximum conditioning properties and minimum aggressively to skin and scalp.

Remember that property mainly means conditioner and emollient wetting, emolliency acting as a lubricant and wetting increasing the water content of the skin.

 

I selected two oils with excellent conditioning properties, olive oil and avocado oil. The olive oil is well known for its great features for skin and avocado also well known for benefits to hair, restoring dried hair and leaving them silky.

Palm oil whose main function is to give hardness to the soap, was eliminated to enhance the quantities of olive and avocado, totaling 70%.

The 12% castor oil is a quantities reasonable to have a good thick lather and creaminess. The main function of shea butter in this formulation is to give a bit of hardness to soap. Jojoba oil contributes greatly to the good treatment of the scalp and its quantity is kept low so as not to compromise their hardness almost 10% unsaponifiables tip hardness. The sugar is to help improve foaming.

This formulation is quite different, unusual, breaking the rules of good design. It is similar to the 100% olive soap with predominantly sodium oleate. If put into a calculator that provides the properties of the soap such as Soapcalc, see that it is a formulation “unbalanced” with a ratio of unsaturated / saturated with 80/20. For example, have zero cleaning, that is clear, because it not has coconut, hardness is below the lower limit without the palm and bubbly at the lower limit because the sugar does not enter into calculations. By contrast has a conditioning far beyond the upper limit. It turns out that this formulation is deliberately unbalanced, everything was prepared for such a great conditioning sacrificing other properties within the acceptable.

With the absence of saturated oils this soap has a defect, very similar to soap with 100% olive oil. When wet it gets sticky and has a tendency to solubilize faster than a regular soap with palm and coconut. Nothing too serious that disparages the soap, taking care due to soaps such there will be no problems. This is the price one pays for maximum conditioning to the hair.

click here to download complete formula

After a week of drying did a test using this shampoo bars. All properties were predicted reached and many of them have exceeded expectations. The shampoo after drying for only one week he has hardeness enough to be handled smoothly. The dough is quite uniform and no graininess and harshness (no coconut). It has abundant foam with medium bubbles, creaminess typical of castor and a reasonable degree of cleanliness. Leaves hair silky and loose. Meets the typical functions of a good shampoo and also the best, is very good for the body,  leaves skin velvety quite noticeable for a long time after the bath. The shampoo really gets sticky after use but dries well and is good for the next use.

 

 

Comentários encerrados.